DIY Changing Belts on 03-05' G35C 6mt

Noticed some cracks on my belts a few weeks back so I finally got around to changing them after watching this great support vid from bythebayplayer from G35driver.com (posted with permission ).

http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gcoupe/projects/infiniti_g35_drive_belts_replacement_procedure.htm

Tools:
Jack
Jackstands
drill with a 10mm nub for all those screws holding on the plastic underneath
ratchet
14mm deep socket for pulley nut closer to driver side
14mm wrench for pully nut closer to passenger
12mm for tensioner bolts
10mm regular socket (deep socket or regular socket with extension will clear screws better when removing the front lip and undercover.
Flat head screwdriver for ribits that hold on intake extension

Parts used:
Part number: 11720-4P102
OEM Nissan LARGE serpentine belt( alternator, crank, etc)

Part number:11920-AG900
AC power steering(?) BELT small one






[img]


[b]Step 1: Remove intake extension above radiator [/b]
by removing plastic ribits. Pull the middle of the ribit up by using your nails or a flat head screwdriver and then the rest easily pulls off.


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Step 2: Remove plastic undercover
using drill and 10mm nub (not wrench as pictured just using it to point). Sounds easy but there's like 20 screws that hold it and the front lip on. You only need to remove the front half screws so that the cover hangs down enough to reach/see the belts.





Step 3: Lossen pulleys.
There are two gold nuts in front of the pulleys facing the front of the car, one further towards the passenger side next to the altnernator and one toward the driver side to the left of the crank.
I removed both from underneath. Loosen slowly, don't remove this only loosen. You can check periodically by removing the wrench after each quarter turn and see if you can unscrew the nut with your hand, if you can move it with your hand it's loose enough. Both nuts are 14mm but using a wrench for one side made it easier while using a ratchet made it easier on another.
I used the 14mm wrench for the one furthest to the passenger side.

Here is the placement for LOOSENING the second pulley (you can loosen in any order refered to as second only to distingish from the other one).



Picture of the tool placement on the tensionser they face toward the ground at the end of a long bolt and are 12mm, it's the lower of the two nuts to the right of the red line in the photo below.

Ones closer to passenger




closer to Driver




They can't fall out, loosen them all the way, it makes placing the belts much easier.


Step 4: Make a note of tension, Remove belts and place new belts.
Refer to manual for routing, and tighten to specs.
Old Belts:




new belts top view



After placing belts but before and during the adding tension/tightening step; feel the new belt all the way around the pulleys and make sure they are placed correctly in between the rise of the pulleys that keeps them in place. With your hand recheck the belts by feeling them to make sure they are still on the pulleys as you use the 12mm socket to increase tension on them until you can't tension them with your hand.
Visually inspect them and feel around again before using the ratchet and the 12mm to tighten them to spec. Now place the proper tension and tighten the pulleys (gold bolts in front of pulley's that were to the left of red marks earlier and hidden behind the 14mm wrench and 14mm deeps socket on a ratchet in above photo's.
Check
don't assemble until car is started and everything sounds fine.
A lot of mechanics play this part by ear, but I recommed you just use a gauge and save yourself the drama
or..
If your not using a gauge, squealing usually means that the belt is too tight or loose. Listening watching the belts while the car is running sometimes helps to reveal which of the belts is squealing. I recommend looking toward the AC belt aka the second one aka the one furthest to the passenger side. Easy way to fix this is too loosen the belt tension. First loosen the pulley again, then unscrew the tension about a half a turn, retighten the pulley, start the car and listen. If the squeal gets worst you need to increase the tension. Gradually increase the tension until squealing stops. Belts stretch after breaking in, so they may start to squeal again later, use the same method above to correct this. Non OEM belts from autozone tend to squeel more easily, spend the money, save the stress and buy OEM. I'm going to invest in a belt tension gauge, so if you know me, hit me up.
In General the front belt that goes to the alternator (the wider serpentine belt). Should not be able to bend over 90 degrees and the belt behind is tighter.